to include a bugnet bag, a monofilament gillnet/hammock (without the floats or weights) the hammock straps, tarp tieoffs and 4 plastic stakes.. What I have come up with so far is a bug net bag, with metal snaps all around, full coverage, but divisiable in half, so that i can use it to block both ends of an a-frame shelter if I choose. On cold nights, it will be worn inside of the velcro seamed, drawstring at the neck "breathable", enlarged SOL escape bivvy (velcro seams) Around that will be the "heavy duty" mylar space blanket/bag, with cloth strips around the edges and metal snaps, for complete enclosure. I have not yet proven this system below 30F for all night scenarios but It sufficed for that, and I did not have the additional clothing, nor the armor. This was in the hammock, with the plastic bag/blanket snapped around the 2 mylar bags. I have a couple of reflectix rectangles, for the shoulders., which can be inserted inside of a little pocket that my wife sewed into the heavy duty, "outside" blanket bag. If shtf, i'll be wearing my Level II vest and boxer shorts (made from another Kevlar vest) Given hip and shoulder holes being dug into frozen ground, this padding suffices, as long as also take a 10mg, timed release ambien tablet. The heavy duty mylar bag, due to the snaps, will open flat, and has tieoff points sewn into it. I also have a clear plastic tarp/bag, with metal snaps and cloth strip edges, which, combined with the heavy duy mylar blanket, make a fine tarp cover, (they snap together) to make an 8 x 14. The clear plastic has fiberglass reinforcing threads in it, and is intended for use as the front of a lean-to, Korchanski supershelter type, if it's cold enough to need a fire. I dont like to need a fire. It's a pita to start and tend, and get wood for, it's a fire hazard and it can easily "call in" people whom you definitely dont want to meet! The army says that at about 10F degrees, enemy activity nearly ceases. So maybe I'll be ok with a fire down in a dakota pit, in front of the supershelter, with a stick "wall" on the far side of the fire, faced with heavy duty aluminum foil. Because there's less popping of embers in the direction of the shelter, when down in the shallow trench, and because I'll keep the fire small, I can get away with having it closer to the shelter, without worrying about burning holes in my gear. Because the foil-wall will reflect some of the radiant heat towards my supershelter, that helps reduce the need for a big fire. Ditto, by having proper clothing and adequate sleep gear, the need for the fire is reduced. You dont want it to be warmer than about 40F degrees in the shelter when sleeping in the inside mylar bag and bug netting. During the day, can't risk a fire's smoke, unless it's a matter of life and death. I seek to be able to also sleep on the ground. I want to sleep ok on the ground at 10f degrees, but I might not get that. I haven't yet. This 5 lb system does not include. the 2 pairs of long johns (one open-knit ones I'd wear during the day, and which COULD be worn outside of the sleeping ones, (merino wool). It does not include the hoodie, the shemaugh, the bandana, or the extra socks (2 each polypro and thermax wool mix) and one pair of goretex socks, or the ski gloves. This "extra" clothing (besides normal summer wear) totals 2.5 lbs. I detest sleeping bags that are ruined when they get wet and I detest zippers, too. Surprisingly, the bug netting adds a lot of insulation value when it's worn under your clothing, whether you are sleeping or walking. It also stops the pumping action of your clothing, which tends to push out your bodily-warmed air thru the space between your clothing and your neck.